In the heart of Rome, where classical grandeur meets modern elegance, Fendi reshaped the language of luxury in the 1970s and 1980s. What began as a family-run fur atelier evolved into a global symbol of experimental sophistication, led by the visionary partnership between the Fendi sisters and Karl Lagerfeld. Together, they transformed fur from a static symbol of status into a dynamic canvas of creativity — redefining texture, craftsmanship, and identity in fashion. 

From Family Atelier to Global Icon 

Founded in 1925 by Adele and Edoardo Fendi, the house had long been known for exquisite furs and leather goods. But by the time the five Fendi sisters — Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla, and Alda — took over the business, the world of fashion was shifting. The postwar years gave rise to modern Italian luxury, where tradition met innovation. When the sisters invited a young Karl Lagerfeld to join in 1965, it marked the beginning of one of fashion’s most fruitful collaborations.

By the 1970s, Lagerfeld had become the creative engine behind Fendi’s transformation. His sketchbooks brimmed with daring ideas, turning fur into light, playful, and textural garments that broke every rule of old-world luxury. With the sisters’ entrepreneurial force and Karl’s fearless artistry, Fendi began to redefine the role of craftsmanship in an age obsessed with modernity.

The Double-F: “Fun Fur” and a Revolution of Identity

Perhaps nothing captures Fendi’s 1970s energy better than the introduction of the double-F monogram — famously standing for “Fun Fur.” Created by Lagerfeld in 1965 but popularized in the 1970s, the logo became a visual shorthand for everything Fendi stood for: wit, confidence, and craftsmanship.

Unlike the rigid emblems of old luxury houses, Fendi’s double-F carried an irreverent spirit. It adorned everything from fur coats to canvas bags, instantly recognizable yet never ostentatious. The monogram’s geometric boldness reflected 1970s design culture — where Italian modernism met pop art, and where the boundaries between art, fashion, and architecture blurred.

This clever balance between heritage and playfulness was crucial. Fendi didn’t simply trade on its Roman roots; it made Rome modern. The Eternal City’s baroque richness found a new echo in Lagerfeld’s designs — voluminous, tactile, and bursting with life — all while grounded in the meticulous handwork of Fendi’s fur artisans.

Texture as Status

The 1970s and 1980s were decades obsessed with surface and touch, and Fendi made texture the new symbol of power. Under Lagerfeld’s direction, fur ceased to be just a luxury material — it became a medium for experimentation.

Sheared, dyed, quilted, and even woven into patterns that mimicked fabric, fur at Fendi was reinvented season after season. The atelier developed techniques so innovative that their craftsmanship itself became a luxury status symbol. Fendi’s approach wasn’t about overt glamour; it was about subtle mastery — a celebration of what the human hand could achieve.

By the 1980s, this mastery extended beyond fur. Fendi’s ready-to-wear collections captured the decade’s confident silhouettes, blending Roman opulence with cosmopolitan ease. The introduction of accessories, including iconic bags like the Baguette’s early predecessors, laid the groundwork for a future empire. The double-F logo reappeared across silks, leathers, and suedes, cementing Fendi’s identity as both timeless and unmistakably contemporary.

Roman Craft, Global Influence

While Milan became known for business-driven minimalism in the 1980s, Fendi stood apart — rooted in Roman sensuality and artistic excess. The brand’s headquarters at Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, often called the “Square Colosseum,” embodied this duality: modern geometry meeting classical grandeur. It was more than a building; it was Fendi’s philosophy made concrete.

Through Lagerfeld’s imagination and the Fendi sisters’ deep respect for artisanal tradition, the house became a symbol of Italy’s creative resilience. Fendi’s fur wasn’t just about luxury — it was about reinvention, rebellion, and respect for craft.

Legacy

The partnership forged in 1970s–1980s Rome defined an era of innovative luxury that continues to inspire today. The Fendi sisters’ legacy — of collaboration, daring, and Roman artistry — lives on in the house’s ongoing celebration of material experimentation. And Karl Lagerfeld’s double-F remains a symbol not only of fashion heritage but of the joy and freedom that come from mastering one’s craft.

In the story of luxury fashion, few collaborations captured the spirit of their time as perfectly as Fendi’s. Theirs was not just about fur or fashion — it was about turning craftsmanship into a form of cultural power.

Sources and credits:

• Fendi Archives & Historical Timelines, Fendi.com
• “Fendi by Karl Lagerfeld,” Rizzoli, 2015
• Vogue Italia Archives, 1970s–1980s issues
• The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination exhibition notes, 2018